NC6 install and TE trim

With the elevator outboard end layups complete, it was time to install the outboard NC6 inserts.

First step was to slide the NC-8 hinge pin through the NC2 inserts... and leaving a bit sticking out so I could slide and test fit NC6...

Here I am sliding NC6 in place.. using the pin as a guide...

Nice fit!

I measured the thickness of NC6 to be 0.40"...

So I marked the 0.20" position to know where to make the hole for the pop rivet...

I then marked the horizontal line based on the NC6 insert... "x" marks the spot!

Since the Roncz plans say to use Cherry BSP-44 (or Avex 1604-0412), I used a #30 size drill bit and made the hole through the elevator torque tube and NC6 insert... notice I made a pencil line across the side of the NC6 insert to use as a guide to drill straight into the hole...

Taaa-daaa! Hole made....

I then used a 120-deg countersink with a #30 pilot...

 Showing the 120-degree countersink...

I then removed NC6 and marked where the set screw access hole needs to be...

Measured 0.20" inboard from the edge and marked it...

I drilled the set screw access hole a bit larger to allow a little wiggle room in case it did not perfectly align with the threaded hole inside the NC6...

I reinstalled NC6 and aligned it with the pin, rivet hole, and set screw access hole...

When I inserted a BSC-44 rivet in place.. I noticed something strange... the pocket inside NC6 is not deep enough to allow the rivet to go in perfectly flush...

The trick here is to insert the rivet...

Press about halfway.. and as the plunger is being pulled, it then shortens the rivet... allowing me to bring the rivet head flush with the countersink...

See... perfectly flush!!!

Taaaaa-daaaaa!! BSC-44 rivet perfectly flush with the surface.. and NC6 is nicely secured!

I then repeated this for the other elevator...

I then switched my attention to the trailing edge...

You can see here I had rough trimmed the trailing edge after the main skin layups... but it was now time to trim them to exact measurements...

I started out by running the bottom skin template and made tick marks every few inches...

Showing a tick mark being made to define the trailing edge...

I then connected the tick marks using a ruler...

Trailing edge marked! I also made sure I had the necessary glass-to-glass left over..

I then ran the template along the trailing edge to double check the line... all looked well!

I also ran the top skin template and made sure the trailing edge aligned with the bottom skin line...

With the trailing edge line checked.. and double checked... it was time to cut!

I clamped the elevator to my table with the trailing edge hanging out...

 

And trimmed away!!! Adrenalin was run'n high!!!

Notice I trimmed about 1/8" to the line...

I then used a sanding block to fine trim up to the line.. double checking straightness with a straight edge...

Very happy with the results! With NC6 installed and the trailing edge trimmed... I am now ready to jig the elevators up to the canard!